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kona surf story
keauhou
bay big island
1973
USA Hawaii
Kailua
Kona keauhou bay big island.
not
too many howlies (haolies).
killer
locals, yes they were very hard on my friends,
but
not me.
Enter
mushrooms in the pasture across from the cemetery,
South
Kona black sand beach, now covered with magma
Allii
drive and Kahotek
a
couple years later.
Bleeding
on the reef,
and
then the church.
This
was all because of a borrowed surfboard.
A
10 ft duke board.
the
surf was from 12 to 15 ft from where I saw it.
getting
outside was looking grim on this big board,
I
started wondering about why I followed this local into the water this
day.
Kona
in those days was tough for haolies.
we
were never invited to local parties,
If
you looked at the local girls you would most likely get hurt.
but
if you surfed.... well ..
You
might get to hang outside the party,
literarily
on the side lines.
that
was good in those days.
More
on that later....
part 3
the
surf was from 12 to 15 ft from where I saw it
when
I started realizing I was screwed,
it
was too late.
10
foot of white water.
hit
me
What
the f*ck do I do?
hold
on to my board
now
remember that I am on a duke board.
and
it is borrowed.
the
reef. The magma. The urchins.
lots
of blood flowing and seeing the future from under water.
wait;
do I see a tiny church?
or
is it my last breath?
I
thought about the reef messing up my pretty face.
But
I was in way too deep
to
think about vain things
I
started thinking about living more,
eating
lobster again, fresh oysters,
surfing
the lane one more time,
and
the point was still pretty much a quiet place.
local
girls and new surfers changed all that.
My
life changed that day on the borrowed Duke board in Kona.
after
the surf.
the
kona wharf was where most howlies would not go!
for
me it was like a testing ground.
that
day they knew me.
I
think we had a few miller beers.
And
then she showed up.
the
owner of the duke board.
the
most beautiful local girl,
she
was a direct descendent of Duke Kahanamoku.
her
name was Mali.
she
wondered what happened to her board?
Oh
Boy.
I
promise you this story is true and will end soon.
my
girl my friend, mali was always there for me.
She
was the only local girl who I could talk to
I
was like family, until the borrowed duke surfboard day.
It
was not my call,
I
was led by another,
His
name is not important, but I remember him
The
board was a mess,
I
was washed on to the rocks and the reef was not friendly to me or the
the duke,
I
was bleeding a lot,
and
the duke had some big gouges in it.
Now
it was me or not,
Do
I tell her the story as it was or what do I say?
My
mind raced, and raced,
"I
know the board was priceless, I am sorry, I had to surf.
You
know about us surfers, we have to go!"
That
did not seem to comfort her all that much.
mali
said to me 'did you surf my duke board'?
oh
boy.
<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>
a
gift from da bull himself..
Now
it was obvious I had a bad day on the duke.
Mali
was being cool sort of,
and
then she sees which duke I was riding.
all
hell breaks loose.
Not
"The Bull" she screamed and then,
at
that precise moment.
I
find out that this was a special surfboard made by greg noll for the duke,
a
gift from da bull himself. in the fifties.
I
did not know all this history, when I borrowed the surfboard.
I
had heard that name noll,
shaper
in the 50s and 60s,
made
movies too.
"Yes
Mali my love,
a
couple small dings, nothing to worry about", I lied.
Hide
the evidence now was what I was thinking.
And
then the most incredible thing happened to me,
I
passed out.
seems
all the surfing and drinking miller
beers
took its toll at the perfect time!
just
sleep now explain later.
*********************************************************************
Mauna
Loa and she is mad
When
I came to, I didn't know where I was.
Moving
around a little I realized,
I
was riding in the back of a van.
I
could hear two males up front,
in
a heated discussion,
But
they weren't talking any language that I could figure.
Pushing
back the window curtain a little,
I
saw the most incredible sight again,
being
there only 3 weeks before with Mali.
I
knew we were near the volcano Mauna Loa and she was erupting huge.
That's
when it all started to come back,
The
Duke board from The Bull,
Me
and the reef and Mali really pissed.
My
heart started pounding, remembering about the sacrifices,
that
I had heard of, in the old Kona days.
The
legend says that the locals would sometimes throw a howlie (haolie) into
the Lava,
to
appease the mother.
Jesus,
it was just a surfboard!
Or
was it?
What
had I done?
##########))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))#
the
shacks were on the side of an old volcano.
to
remember an old friend name of Casey,
living
on the side of hualalai
the
third volcano on the big island.
Holualoa
was the town
This
was the unnamed friend from #5 serial kona surf story.
I
was in paradise,
up
on mauka was where you wanted to live.
mauka
meaning mountain.
the
shacks were on the side of an old volcano.
toilets
were outside,
among
the goats.
taking
a sh#t was quite dangerous in the early morn.
But
there was a couple surfers.
'I
just rode a duke Kahanamoku board at keauhou bay'
Casey
was a surfer and he was there,
after
the big swell when I rode the Duke board.
he
had seen me kidnapped by the two locals.
"watchin
your back" was what he said.
now
back to the VW van on the edge of the volcano.
Casey
outside the van yelling "you guys get out".
Where
is that howlie "butch"?
I
heard him say my name,
but
I didn't like the tone of his voice.
"Butch
are you out of your mind,
I
told you to stay away from Mali",
Casey
yelled from outside the van.
'I
just rode a duke Kahanamoku surfboard at keahou bay' I thought.
then
it hit me.
Oh
great
two
killers and now Casey were on my trail.
things
were looking pretty bad.
I
prayed to the god of volcanoes.
madam
pele.
story
will be continued
Mali,
has a great story too.
tell
us what you think of the kona surf
story here.
'unknown
author.'