It was destiny.
I spotted the garage sale sign only
because I had to turn around and go back home for my forgotten
wet suit. Dawn Patrol would go on without me. I spotted
the long board propped against the garage from the end
of the block and knew. It was all I could do to keep from
flooring it. I parked my truck in front of the driveway
and myself in front of the board. more
1973 USA Hawaii
Kona keauhou bay big island.
too many howlies (haolies).
locals, yes they were very hard on my friends,
mushrooms in the pasture across from the cemetery,
Kona black sand beach, now covered with magma
drive and Kahotek
couple years later.
on the reef,
then the church.
was all because of a borrowed surfboard.
I look back now I find it difficult to comprehend what was
real and what was imagined as I sat alongside Jack O'Neillís
cliff-side pad at the Dirt Farm that late fall afternoon.
three hours before sunset the surf at Pleasure Point had
been epic. A north swell originating just off the Aleutian
Islands sent long lines reeling across the point from sewer
peak, through first and second peak. At 38th
The salmon boats left in the dark an hour before
dawn and if he had seen how big the surf was, he'd have never
left his slip. It was a south swell and the surge in the harbor
was stronger than anything he'd seen. It was his first year
working out of Santa Cruz and his first year running his own
boat. If he had known how big the waves were he'd have slept
in and gone surfing instead, but he'd already caught more
waves than fish that summer and still hadn't paid the July
slip fee and here it was the 24th. more